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1. zooma🇬🇧Bronze

   艦隊提督·8 時間前

   @ChrisF I agree and really like the way that you extend the keel to support the rudder - far better than the traditional method of just drilling though the keel and clamping the axle sleeve as tightly as possible onto the top surface of the keel.
   
   The moulded rudder sleeve that comes with the usual rudder types (that we mostly all use these days) comes quite long and stands tall, and this usually extends it well above the water line...........but any part of it that is above the keel is unsupported.
   
   Your keel drawings with the integrated rudder support is far superior.
   
   Bob.

   がいいねしました ChrisF
2. ChrisF🇬🇧Bronze

   提督·9 時間前

   @zooma Oh yes, I'd forgotten about the ball jointed connectors and have used them myself!
   
   I have thought about using a servo on it's side before but the swing of the arm meant that I didn't really gain anything heightwise.
   
   The wing servo I've used on my Fisherman build could be a good alternative in smaller models where the load from the rudder isn't too great, though they are surprisingly powerful.
   
   With all of my builds I ensure that the top of the rudder tube is above the chine/waterline.
3. zooma🇬🇧Bronze

   艦隊提督·11 時間前

   @ChrisF I always use a ball jointed rod end on my push rods, so any small disparity between the vertical movement of the servo arm and the horizontal movement of the tiller arm is either accommodated or minimised .
   
   I do try to keep the push rod at a similar height between the servo arm and the tiller arm and this probably helps.
   
   The raised rudder mounting support on the Sprite Plus keel does lift the tiller arm higher than I am used to seeing on my other Classic Model Power Boats, but I have cut off the rudder shaft mounting tube at the height of the large brass locking screw to minimise this increased height and it looks good.
   
   I have used this method of mounting a rudder servo for some years and have driven well over 100 hours of fast cruising without incident or failure.
   
   Rudder movement is not adversely affected by mounting the servo this way.
   
   The advantage of mounting the servo this way is that it is very simple and locates the position of the servo VERY positively with no movement of the servo on the mountings, and it can be very helpful when fitting a servo under a low floor where the lower profile can be accommodated more easily.
   
   Removing or changing the servo is also very fast as the two mounting screws are very easy to access, and when removed the servo just lifts out of the hull.
   
   I will picture the linkage when I fit it and have checked that the raised tiller arm height has not caused any problems between the servo and tiller arm connection.
   
   Bob.
4. ChrisF🇬🇧Bronze

   提督·12 時間前

   @zooma Something I've always thought about with mounting a servo on its side is the arc that the arm makes. How do you deal with that at the rudder arm to allow for the vertical movement?
5. zooma🇬🇧Bronze

   艦隊提督·13 時間前

   @Madwelshman
   
   Morning Will,
   
   The idea has worked well since I first used it on Rapier 1, and that model has clocked-up over 100 hours of fast cruising and the servo has remained firmly in place.
   
   Although a very simple way of mounting the servo, it is also very effective and allows a rapid servo removal if/when required.
   
   The blocks are cut slightly lower than the height of the servo, so when the ply skin top cover plate is screwed on it is under some tension to add pressure onto the servo to help keep it in place.
   
   Bob.
6. Madwelshman🇬🇧

   小 Commander·24 時間前

   @zooma that servo shouldn't go anywhere Bob, not unless there's an extremely strong resistance from the rudder.
   Easily removable too, nice 😉👌
   
   Will

   がいいねしました zooma
7. zooma🇬🇧Bronze

   艦隊提督·1 日前

   After cutting out the mast and cockpit fly screen frames, I cut and fitted the heavy duty servo retaining blocks to house the Volz rudder servo.
   
   A retaining top cap was cut from ply skin to keep the servo in place.
   
   I have used the above servo mounting system on my previous builds including Rapier 1, Kopy Kommander and Remora.
   
   Bob.

   がいいねしました chugalone100 and EdW and 1 other
8. ChrisF🇬🇧Bronze

   提督·1 日前

   @zooma Flat screens can look Ok if you have returns at the sides but I agree in this case a pointed screen would look better and match the roof and cabin window.

   がいいねしました Madwelshman
9. zooma🇬🇧Bronze

   艦隊提督·1 日前

   Now that the cabin roof has been skinned, I am experimenting with shapes to use for a cockpit screen - using cardboard engineering.(old cereal packets).
   
   The idea is that the lower pointed central joint will overlap the rear section of the three part roof to lock it down - leaving only the front part needing some sort of locking device - maybe a magnet?
   
   I started with a regular shape screen, but it looked wrong on a boat with a square punt nose and so I changed to a shape with more angular "shoulders" that I think will look better.
   
   Early days...........
   
   Bob.

   がいいねしました EdW and chugalone100 and 1 other
10. zooma🇬🇧Bronze

    艦隊提督·3 日前

    I had an hour or two at home in the workshop (shed) this afternoon, so I cut and fitted the three separate roof skin coverings and glued them in place.
    
    Hopefully they will all still fit OK when the clamps and brass tacks are removed.
    
    Once the glue is set, I can sand the edges to shape and decide if I am going to design a suitable cockpit windscreen, or maybe even a small shaped wind deflector would look good?
    
    A bit of cardboard engineering will be required as I draw and cut out some shapes to see what looks good........or leave it as the original Sprite, with no additions in this area?
    
    Bob.

    がいいねしました EdW and chugalone100 and 1 other