Its a nice bit of engineering and sounds brilliant, just need to find somewhere to use it now. Attached shows it without oil tube ( i remove it after running to avoid a hydraulic lock on the next run ).

Wonderful NBT you are getting on with the engine.Good luck going foreword.
Rick

Hi NBT,
I guess that makes a happy camper! Might have been a long way round to make sure it runs but you have a piece of history 👍👍👍

NBT,
Excellent result.
I bet you are a happy bunny.

Martin555.

The Gannet lives ran it today for the first time started very easily, i had previously tested the ignition system which gave a very strong spark after cleaning the points. Ran beautifully very quiet and low tick over, I used 1ml redex to 1 litre fuel and 5w30 oil in the oil tube which i adjusted slightly to lower the flow, nice faint blue exhaust. I used a garden sprayer manual pressurised container for water cooling just pumped through the water pickup. Think i uploaded a short video.

Well that was an anti-climax, the locking nut at the engine coupler end came undone very easily which then allowed the drive shaft to be unscrewed by hand from the engine coupler and pulled out. Thanks for all your help

Thanks yes i think they are the only options to try, there is about a 2mm gap between the lock nut and brass shaft at the coupler end so its possible i can loosen there and then hopefully simply unscrew the drive from the prop end.....sounds simple but will give it a go later and see how many expletives i can get through.

Hi NBT,

I am not sure but it looks like the shaft screws in to the black hex/rubber/hex coupler.
It may be a case of undoing the locknut at the prop end and releasing the motor before you can undo the locknut at the coupler end.

Or undo the locknut at the coupler end and turn the shaft to undo it at the prop end.

Martin555.

Can anyone make sense of the attached photo. Have tried to diagram the drive setup possibly not very successfully. The coupling from the engine to drive shaft seems to be a rubber coupled drive. What i cant figure out is if the drive shaft can in someway be pulled out from the prop end. It might be a flexible drive shaft but no idea how this connects to the rubber engine drive unit. I guess the motor end of the drive shaft could also be threaded with the flanged nut locking the two together ?. Im not sure what the aluminium washer is for at the prop end other than some sort thrust washer which is now stuck on as somewhat mangled. Any thoughts appreciated.

As a test i cut a 6mm wide length off a leather belt to see if i could loop under the starter ring and pull it through while keeping tension on the other side. It actually works to a degree i.e. it spins over a compression stroke ( not sure if enough to start ). This might be better than a closed loop belt and an electric starter to avoid hydraulic locks bending the conrod. The engine has a quite a bit of compression which is good and turns over freely its just getting enough momentum to start to it thats going to be the trick.

Better use a penetrating oil. If particularly stubborn some gentle heat might help

Looks like WD40 to the rescue

I think i will pull the engine out and fettle it on the bench as there is no starter cord so need to loop something around anyway. If i can figure out how to release the drive shaft. I can start trying to undo things but dont want to be using force until i know whats what. Does the arrangement in the photos look familiar to anyone ???

Suggest you put some oil in her and let her soak for about 30 Minutes, then rotate her a couple of times. If she is very stiff try longer standing👍👍

Thanks i guess a semi synthetic starting at 5W might be a good choice seen as how i want to try to get some oil into it prior to actually starting it as i have no idea how long its been standing i.e. spin on a starter cord or something. 5W should flow easily at non running temps hopefully.

Hi NBT
As I am a Mechanical Engineer by trade I can inform you that Multigrade oils are better than monograde. You would have no problem using a modern oil in an old engine my 1967 Mini Cooper S runs on Castrol GTX

Luckily my local motor world stocks "Carlube 30 SAE mineral oil" i am never too sure if modern oils with all their Alchemy are good or bad for classic engines. The previous owner has added an after market Oil tube by the looks of it as its bigger than the ones i see on Youtube. The engine is fitted in a very well built 48" Fairey Huntsman and the installation is very good. I will post some photos soon as i can figure out how to disconnect the engine to prop drive yet.

The Amount of oil it takes you could use a Multigrade ie 20-W-30 as the viscosity is 30

Yes Redex still available so i will definitely be mixing a leaded batch. It might be best to use some classic SAE 30 oil i guess i.e. non of the modern additives, need to have a think about that one.

Looks like SAE 30 and Leaded Fuel ( I would add a bit of Redex if it is still made

And a you tube video!

Here's another link
Best of Luck
Ian

Thankyou all for the replies i will spend the evening digesting the info and let you know how i get on.

Hers a site lite link that might help

Found an article on google by Peter Chinn Marine motor mart Garnet 15cc 4 stroke engine ("Model Boats July 1968 P 278") there were other articles also
Hope this helps
Rick

Hi, Try this link should give you lots of nfor including 30 sae oil!

www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/gan_chinn.html

I knew Peter Chinn in the 60's when I lived in North Norfolk, he was at Cromer and wrote regular engine reviews for Aeromodeller. Vey nice chap and always friendly. He sometimes joined us at North Norfolk Aeromodellers .
Best of luck with your project

Geoff