Sorry I did not notice your pm. Have answered it now.

Nerys

Thanks guys, but it looks like a new wiring job as some of the wiring has black wires instead of the nice shiny copper it should be, and I think it deserves a better motor, possibly a 600 as I have a few spare, and esc control. Also as it only needs 2 channels I will fit it with a new rx that will work with my tx's. But will stick to my vintage stock so could be 40mhz.
So this one gets put aside till my old sea commander gets finished.
But I will box up all the equipment ready to fit.
Cheers Colin. 🤞

"The forward/reverse switch seems to be a similar system to the one I used in my Gato Submarine."
Yep! A two microswitch version of JB's (?) servo operated DPST switch.👍
(Double Pole, Single Throw) or DPDoubleT if you want OFF in the middle.
😎

Exactamente Dodgy 👍
Martin is also correct.
Point 2 was discussed a few days ago in a similar thread.
The earth wire should be soldered or clamped to the prop tube of earth plate though.
A loose connection like a croc clip can itself be a source of interference; so called "Metal to metal noise". That's also why I don't like all metal UJs for the prop shaft.

Even 1:1 ships can suffer from problems with earthing plates!
In the mid nineties I designed a COMMS system for a series of glass fibre minesweepers.
Against my better judgement the yard decide to use vertical whip antennae for the HF radios.
A vertical monopole whip antenna needs a good earth to act as it's counterpoise.
"No problem " said the yard "We'll let a copper earth plate into the keel."
After launching and a few weeks of fitting out and trials they complained that the HF comm efficiency and range was deteriorating. We tested all our radios, ATU and cabling and all was OK.
Then we sent a diver down to inspect the earth plate.
He came up and said "It looks like Chantilly lace!"
Red faces at the yard and they coughed up for the Crossed Dipole antenna (with it's own built in counterpoise and ATU) which I wanted to fit in the first place 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

1 - MacGregor radios had a non-industry-standard IF. So you may have problems sourcing a suitable pair of crystals.

2 - Having a single Earth point was a standard interference suppression requirement. This used to be provided by connecting the negative side of the circuit to a plate in contact with the water, or, for convenience, the prop tube...

It's possible Martin. Or if wired in parallel for longer run time. Each battery pack is 6 volts. I'll have a look in the morning.
Cheers Colin.

The third battery might be for full speed ?
I.e. Half speed/full speed system.
Martin555.

That's a good idea, I'll have to have a look. As there are 3 battery packs to connect, 1 to the motor switching system. 1 to the rx and not sure where the 3rd goes yet.
Cheers Colin.

Perhaps the crocodile clip connects directly to the battery , and all negative connections are taken from a central point.

Martin555.

Yes Martin, sounds right, but I've never seen it wired in this way with a crocodile clip. I usually have a capacitor in the circuit and hard wired.
Cheers Colin.

Hi Colin,
It sounds like that system is just full speed or nothing.

I seem to recall that the Admiral mentioned in a previous thread I think it Was about motor suppression The extra wiring you have is part of that.
I am not certain maybe the Admiral can confirm.

Martin555.

Hi Martin, yes that is how it is wired, just one thing I forgot to ask, there is another wire that is connected to the propshaft and also the motor body with an extension wire with a crocodile clip on the end which was clipped to the negative side of the power on off switch???? Also I have been able to get the shafts free and the motor running in both directions, it seems like there isn't any form of speed control.
Cheers Colin

Hi Martin, I will have a look at how mine is wired and make a sketch.
Cheers Colin.

Hi Colin.

The forward/reverse switch seems to be a similar system to the one I used in my Gato Submarine.
Here is a diagram of mine, it might help you make some sense of it.

Martin555.

Well fellow boatworlders, here is the Sea Commander.
Originally built in the early 1960s by modeller from Cumbran in Wales.
Sadly it had been left in a shed for a few years where it suffered the ingress of damp and woodworm. I have managed to turn the propshaft and motor with the aid of WD40.
I have hopefully cured the woodworm in the keel and injected it with resin to stabilise. I can't move the rudder servo. And the forward and reverse system is a puzzle to me, also the old rx may not work unless I can locate a suitable transmitter. If anyone has an old magregor transmitter that is no longer needed I would be interested in buying it.
The Hull and superstructure are solid and in fair condition, which is he as I am in the process of renovating my dad's old one and it has parts missing which I can measure and rebuild.
All comments appreciated.
Cheers Colin.

If the worm killer cures, with some filler, the keel problem and the rest of the hull is good then that's a good part of the battle. Unless you are intent on restoring the ancient electrics, they can always be replaced. I expect a good clean and a coat of paint will have her looking as good as new. Look forward to seeing pictures of her.