Not surprised Michael.
Like I said I only bought it cos I have a large collection of batteries of all sorts of types and sizes and I wanted to be able to take better care of them.
The Polaron stores parameters for the various types and has a USB data port to export the results to the PC. Still learning how to use that to create a Battery Data Log 😉

You should be able to find one of the little Robbe or Graupner jobs on the Fleabay, or there's always Turnigy & C.
Happy charging, cheers, Doug 😎

Thanks Doug most helpful, Ill get on with the dis-ch/ch process.
Not sure I can justify the expense of that charger at the moment.
again many thanks

Hi Michael,
I had to make up adaptor leads as well for my bigger NiMhs; one for Tamiya and one for XT60s. The third pin on the socket has no connection.
The manufacturer of these gizmos seems to assume that they will only be used for RX batteries!🤔

"These batteries will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together? "
If you mean all connected in parallel - I'm afraid not🤔
The charger controller would get awfully confused! As it has to be able to read the individual pack voltages in order to control the process and know when to stop discharging and start charging.
To cycle both batteries simultaneously you need a two port charger.
Something like the one in attached pic.
I also recently acquired a Graupner Polaron EX two port charger.
https://www.graupner.com/Polaron-EX-charger-red/S2011.R/
More expensive (a lot!) but it can also do a lot more for your battery management.
You can programme and store several different types and capacities of batteries; SLA, NiMh, LiPo, LiFe etc and set all necessary parameters; number of cycles, discharge current, charge current, stop criteria, timer etc. A selectable tabular or graphic display shows you how the cycle is progressing and the status of the battery.
It will also tell you the internal resistance of the battery to give you an idea of it's quality and suitability for high current applications😉 Does LiPos and SLAs as well.
I just bought the two port DC only version without mains input cos I already had a 13.8V 17A supply kicking about doin' nowt! You can also hang the charger on a 12V SLa or car battery.
As I have a considerable number of LiPos and NiMhs for various purposes, and having had sad and costly experiences in the past with failed batteries, I considered it a reasonable investment to get the most out of my batteries!
Cheers, Doug

Hi Doug thanks for that most useful.
I have the capacity meter but no lead from battery to meter , I have the servo plugs and xt60 plugs/sockets plus crimping tool & wire. I am capable of producing the lead so that's OK, BUT I notice that the NiMh socket on the meter has tree pins but the lead I need to make has only 2 wires + & -. looking at your pics I can see the + is to the centre pin and - to an outside pin, I made the lead up and it works OK giving reading on both batteries (see pic)
so what next - discharge/charge 3 times?
These batteries will be used in parallel so can they go through this discharge/charge process linked together?

Hi Mike,
1. You don't need that adapter, aka Balancer Board. Primarily for LiPo batteries so that the charger can measure individual cell voltages and adjust them accordingly so that they are all the same +/- 100mV or so. So called balancing. Unless you have a rare breed of NiMh with a balancer cable attached you don't need this.

2. 9.5V for an 8 cell NiMh (nominal 9.6) sounds good for new batteries. Nevertheless, I recommend you get a capacity meter, see pic lower battery is a new 4.8V NiMh, upper a LiPo, which will tell you the 'true' state of the battery. For a new, unused NiMh I would expect a capacity of around 40%.
Consensus says new NiMh packs should be cycled 3 or 4 times through a discharge / charge cycle to condition them for use and minimise the dreaded 'Memory Effect'.
Set the discharge current to no more than 1Amp, charge current 0.5A (500mA) and charge for 11 hours for your 5000mAh packs. The charger should take care or the timing.

It should also gradually reduce the charge current as the battery approaches full charge. The charger should detect Full Charge by a process known as Delta Peak; when fully charged the battery reaches a Peak voltage. If you continue charging the battery becomes 'overcharged' and the voltage dips slightly, the Delta in the Peak voltage😉.
A good charger should detect this and switch off.
Cheers, Doug 😎