Thanks Dave. That's very informative and information I wasnt aware of.

Hi Les
I see from an earlier post you were considering a Dragon Flight 95 yacht.
This looks like the larger version of the RG65 yacht I have.

Regarding the battery I suggest you remove after every sail and open up the hull covering to allow any moisture to evaporate.

Leaving the battery connected with or without a switch when there is moisture present will over time result in catalytic action on the black wire from the battery to the rx connection. The whole wire will turn black and need replacing

Far better to store your battery in an inside environment where there is no condensation.

Lixx I store in a metal box in case of any problem.

As Doug says the capacity of the battery and the equipment it is supplying determine how long the battery lasts. When you set up the yacht do make sure your winch and rudder servo are not driving up to the end stops as servos can and do draw large currents if stalled.

My RG 65 sails happily for 2-3 hours on a fully charges LiFe 6v battery, but I had to add a 5v UBEC to protect the minature rudder servo.

Hope this helps
Dave

Hi Les, Sorry🤔 but this is another "How long is a piece of string?" question.
It's a simple equation to work out the theoretical endurance, but no input = no output!
Inputs required are-
Battery type and nominal capacity; mAh as printed on the battery pack,
Current drawn by all the electrics connected to it: RX, servos, sail winches etc, auxiliary motor if fitted. I'll leave that bit to the sailing buffs here. I have zilch yachting experience.

Re: depletion:
Battery should not be left connected when not in use!
You should have an ON/OFF switch in the boat to disconnect it.
If not in use for longer periods it should be removed from the boat and periodically charged, only to 50% capacity for a LiPo when stored. stored NiCads and NiMh should be periodically cycled; that means discharging to the safe minimum and then recharging SLOWLY. Good chargers have automatic programs for this.
Depletion, even when not connected to anything, depends on the battery type. A NiCad looses approx. 1% per month, NiMh and LiPos considerably less but still some depending on the internal resistance of the pack. Better quality (higher price) should mean lower internal resistance and less/slower natural depletion. Avoid cheapo 'no names'.
A pic of the battery would be more use than one of the RX😉
Cheers Doug 😎