Ron
Yes it provides a good close fitting base and with a top clamp will give solid and aligned support. The final top clamp should not be too tight. I usually set with a low voltage battery connected via an ammeter and adjust for the lowest current.
Happy days
dave

Great! I will give it a try. Thanks. The motor has a good torque when power is applied, the silicon base should help stop the twisting too. Correct?

Hi Ron
Its food wrap as shown by Doug.
I am posting some pics of a very rough set up to illustrate the process.
I have used some white tissue to illustrate the white bath sealant but I think you will get the idea.
The mounting blocks need to be wide enough to take any screw fixing you choose to use and can be mounted direct to the hull.
Make a plate shaped to the motor diameter to hold and use some soft rubber or similar in between the plate and motor. Dont place this until the silicon has set and you have refitted the motor.
I align by connecting the motor to the shaft and gently pushing into the silicon until level. Use a low voltage battery to make sure it runs freely. Then leave to set, could be a couple of days if cold before carefully removing the motor with film. Remove film and refit. As mentioned make sure any cooling holes on the motor are not blocked.
Hope this helps but please ask if you need clarification.
Dave

Hi Ron, if you mean the 'cling film' you may know it as plastic wrap or food wrap, or even Saran Wrap from Dow.
Cheers Doug 😎

Dave could you post some step -by-step photos of this method? I am not aware if the product you are using, maybe it is known by another name in Canada.

Hi Ron
I use two blocks glued to the base just slightly wider than the motor can. Fill between with silicon bath sealant cover the motor in cling film (the acetic acid will attack the can until it has set) push into the sealant and run at slow speed to get best alignment.
Leave to dry for a few days, carefully remove the motor and film from the motor. I then fashion a top clamp to hold the motor using some soft material between the clamp and motor. I have used cable ties and rubber bands for some lighter motors. Gives a really smooth mount and there is no noise such as you have if its bolted to the hull.
Just make sure you leave gaps for any cooling holes in the mounting.
Hope this helps
Dave

I agree 1000% I have exactly the same problem with my Sea Scout renovation, changing from old huge Decaperm to modern mini brushless!
There must be a better way than trial and error 🤔
Good luck, Doug 😎

Trying to replace the motor mount in an existing model is difficult. Especially when there is structure above the motor.

The former arrangement was geared and I am changing it to direct drive. Getting the alignment and motor vibration to allow for the smoothest operation is a lot of trial fits. This motor has lots of torque.

Hi Grandpa,
Try this
http://www.modelboatbits.com/MFA-500-600-METAL-MOTOR-MOUNT-1
or this
http://www.modelboatbits.com/MFA-360-380-385-400-MOTOR-MOUNT-1
there must be equivalents or dealer in your neck of the woods!
Or make an adjustable one like the Krick version; 3rd pic.

Some people make a little 'box' for the motor to sit in, to avoid having to fumble with the two screws on the front face of the motor, 4th pic.
Whichever way you go, have fun.
Cheers Doug 😎