If you want to get silly, this is how I did my stays'il winch
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This picture of the Atlantis shows exactly how the instructions/plans call for the loop system to control the sails.
The plans do show the center divider of the drum removed. I don't know why they want it removed. Other than the loop is less likely to foul?
Seems strange that other builds just call for a sail winch, why should this one be any different?
Found this photo from someones' build and you can see that the central ridge is in place. He mentions that it uses a loop system for operating the sails, is this what your instructions call for?
It's a big model and the force from the sails will be large, which Hitec servo do you have as they do a bigger, more powerful one?
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Seems strange that other builds just call for a sail winch, why should this one be any different?
Found this photo from someones' build and you can see that the central ridge is in place. He mentions that it uses a loop system for operating the sails, is this what your instructions call for?
It's a big model and the force from the sails will be large, which Hitec servo do you have as they do a bigger, more powerful one?
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Just wondering what the end result is you are trying to achieve? Is it for a purpose other than sail control?
Might another solution be a 3D printed spool?
Hi Hsailor,
You could also put the drum onto a suitable bolt to use as a mandrel so it can be held in an electric drill and spun. This would allow you to "machine-off" the ridge with whatever tool you feel happy to use.
The drill will need to be held firmly to do this safely.
If you have access to a lathe, you will still need a mandrel to hold the plastic drum whilst it is being turned.
If you don't fancy machine "turning" the spool in any way, it can be filed and sanded back by hand and with care can produce a very acceptable finish.
Bob.
You could also put the drum onto a suitable bolt to use as a mandrel so it can be held in an electric drill and spun. This would allow you to "machine-off" the ridge with whatever tool you feel happy to use.
The drill will need to be held firmly to do this safely.
If you have access to a lathe, you will still need a mandrel to hold the plastic drum whilst it is being turned.
If you don't fancy machine "turning" the spool in any way, it can be filed and sanded back by hand and with care can produce a very acceptable finish.
Ok, with you now. If you are careful you should be able to remove the central ridge with a small file. Fiddly but it could be done.
Or if you know someone with a small lathe and can mount the drum then that would be a better solution.
It is a smooth drum needed between the outer flanges where the line winds. I do not want the drum to have 2 sections for this purpose, as it comes from the factory.
I want to retain the center of the drum where it attaches to the servo.
It is a smooth drum needed between the outer flanges where the line winds. I do not want the drum to have 2 sections for this purpose, as it comes from the factory.
I want to retain the center of the drum where it attaches to the servo.
Not sure what you mean, but if it's removing the winch drum from the servo it's a case of removing the screw and pulling it off the splines. The Hitec ones are all one piece so can't be taken apart.
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Not sure what you mean, but if it's removing the winch drum from the servo it's a case of removing the screw and pulling it off the splines. The Hitec ones are all one piece so can't be taken apart.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn