#23 1年前

Hand Painting

One of my first jobs was working for my Grandfather’s painting company. At 13 years old I did a ton of high ladder work and was at times was hung in a bosun’s chair (three stories up) cutting window sash on my old elementary school windows.
Having survived some harrowing and funny incidents I traded my paint brushes for golf bags and became a pro/am caddie for 11+ years. Safer on the ground.

But, back to the main subject…I’m rambling…
As mentioned earlier, I cover all my latex paint especially used on hulls with an exterior spar varnish. On the flip side the best thing about oil based paints is that they dry hard and waterproof.

It’s sad that oil based paints are going the way of the dodo. The absolute best (imho), Benjamin Moore’s Satin Impervo, is over $90 a gallon now! yikes!

A good substitute, Rust-oleum oil based brush paints are great, but take days to dry, but they dry extra hard.

がいいねしました AlessandroSPQR and hermank and

#22 1年前

Hand Painting

For my Kopy Kommander I used an oil based “non-drip” gloss paint for the red, white and blue colours and mixed the blue and white to make the lighter blue deck colour.

Non-drip paint is thixothermic, so when it is stirred it works like a standard oil based gloss paint and can be thinned or mixed.

……and it is oil based and has proven to be very durable on my Rapier.

I also used it on my Remora….

Never too old to learn

がいいねしました hermank and ChrisF and

#21 1年前

Hand Painting

If the technical rep for the paint manufacturer wouldn’t use it (water based outdoor gloss paint) on his own front door ….it can’t be much good for our model boats can it ?

Never too old to learn

がいいねしました hermank and DuncanP

#20 1年前

Hand Painting

Thanks Alessandro, it's amazing that it was from 1962 and still looks modern!

Bob, whilst it's said that water is only the carrier for the paint and once dry it shouldn't be affected I think we can deduce that isn't the case and I've always had my doubts. Oil resists water!

Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn

がいいねしました hermank and DuncanP and

#19 1年前

Hand Painting

Wonderful, outstanding Chris!

がいいねしました Len1 and hermank and

#18 1年前

Hand Painting

I bought a tin of a modern water based gloss paint that was recommended for outdoor use on doors and was even “suitable for use on metal”

My test was to use it on the stand for the Rapier.

It took several coats to cover, and when I took the boat out of the water following its test run a few weeks later, the paint showed spots where some droplets of the fresh water had dripped onto it.

Pathetic !

I called the technical helpline for the paint manufacturer concerned and reminded him of the paints claimed function (as printed on the tin) and he actually said “ I wouldn’t use it on my door”. 😱

Never too old to learn

がいいねしました hermank and DuncanP and

#17 1年前

Hand Painting

Just had a look and Craftmaster Paints do some smaller tins (not as small as Humbrol though) and a sign writing enamel which is designed to cover in one coat. So if I need colours other than my Fairey blues and white I will be looking at them.

Sorry, off-topic, but photo for Alessandro!

Chris

Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn

がいいねしました hermank and AlessandroSPQR and

#16 1年前

Hand Painting

You are bang on as regards water based paints and varnishes for that matter.

I built some decking many years ago and coated it with an oil based finish and it looked good for many years. When I came to recoat it I used a water based finish which despite manufacturers claims didn't last very long and I had problems with it going green in places. So useless infact that some planks have rotted and I need to replace them. When I do I will be returning to oil based but quite a bit more expensive but much better and worth the extra cost. As regards external water based gloss I've seen darker colours show water spots if rain sits on it.

I've used water based gloss inside the house but having used oil based previously it's a disappointment as it doesn't brush as well and is nowhere as glossy. I've got the bathroom door and architrave to paint white at some point and I'm going to use my International paint!

It's telling that the trade still prefer to use oil based if the finish is all important. Whilst it's getting increasingly difficult to find in DIY stores, Dulux, for instance have trade stores which the general public can use. Again expensive and relatively large tins though.

Chris

Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn

がいいねしました hermank and DuncanP and

#15 1年前

Hand Painting

Most model boats that were made in the 1950’s and 1960’s were painted with regular spirit based household paints or thin model enamels such as those made by Humbrol or Japlac.

Buying model enamels in any size other than the miniature tinlets is not as easy as it used to be.

The traditional hardware shops that stocked the paints and glues that we all used back then have all but disappeared and the giant superstores that have replaced them just don’t stock any of these model enamel paints anymore.

Most of the household paints that are stocked are now environmentally friendly water based products that are simply not suitable for painting model boats that are to be regularly used in water.

Many hours of testing and disappointment has proven this to be the case - even with paints that are sold for exterior use - some even claiming to be suitable for outdoor metalwork too !

Finding spirit based household paints here in the U.K. is getting harder all the time, and so the available choice is much reduced too.

I will soon have to start looking for suppliers of coach paints - definitely a superior product, but a more expensive option and one that (due to its intended use on vehicles and marine craft) is usually only available in much bigger tins than I would ideally want to buy and stock.

Maybe some fellow local model boat makers would like to consider buying a stock of smaller sized new and unused empty tins so that the purchase of the more common colours could be shared and divided between them?

This would save cost and storage as well as reducing the risk of the paint “going-off “ before it could all be used?

Never too old to learn

がいいねしました Steve P and Len1 and

#14 1年前

Hand Painting

Thanks for reminding me of the choice of paint that you made to hand paint your various Fairy models with Chris.

As I restore and build classic model power boats from the 1960’s period I like to build and paint them in a way and with materials and techniques that are as true to the time period as possible- and hand painting them is very much the way almost all of them were coloured.

Spray painting them would be very much faster and easier, but hand painting is more traditional and allows the use of different types of paints.

Never too old to learn

がいいねしました hermank and Len1 and

#13 1年前

Hand Painting

Just to make it official...
I have found out through research that the Bluebird vehicles both Land and Water did not have a consistent color. In other words, there were variations, but it seems that the K-7 ended up being painted in an easily available color (at the time) used by Ford on some of their cars at the Dagenham Plant called Fjord Blue. I have attached a swatch card. Seems it was a popular color on the Zephyr 6 MklV.

I have a message in with the Bluebird Supporters Club in Shropshire to confirm that was in fact the color used.
The answer should be interesting.
😉

がいいねしました Rookysailor and Len1 and

#12 1年前

Hand Painting

Of course Chris!

がいいねしました Len1 and ChrisF

#11 1年前

Hand Painting

Spray painting is generally quicker as you can apply a number of coats in quick succession. With the brush paints I use I have to leave overnight and with the number of coats I apply it can be a lengthy process!

It is quite expensive as well as my chosen paint is not available in very small tins. Fortunately I can use a limited number of colours (two blues and a white) on my Fairey builds so it's not too bad!

I was going to spray paint my builds originally and went as far as buying the cans from Halfords but I kept procrastinating and missing my windows of opportunity i.e. warmer/dry weather as I had to spray outside.

Trouble is as I get older I tend to be more apprehensive about things I'm doing. When I was young I used to work on my cars and motorcycles (including full rebuilds of the latter) without a second thought. One thing I did was to respray my Lambretta TV 175 using a big petrol engined powered compressor and spray gun even though I'd never used one before! Came out pretty well!

Alessandro you will be interested I hope that I still have another TV 175 that I bought a few years ago.

Chris

Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn

がいいねしました Len1 and Steve P and

#10 1年前

Hand Painting

You're a true master, Jumpugly.

I'm not good at painting and coloring, and when I do, I never use spray cans or airbrushes.
I don't know which method is easier, but I'm sure skilled and experienced people like you can do both well.
What I'm wondering is how you can paint without brushes.
I've had to paint objects, or worse, parts of objects, so small that without a very small, fine brush it would have been impossible. Is there an alternative for very small objects?
I believe you can paint anything with brushes (although in many cases it's more convenient and quicker to use spray paint), but vice versa, no.
I can't paint parts of very small objects with spray cans or airbrushes because masking is virtually impossible.

がいいねしました Len1 and Nickthesteam and

#9 1年前

Hand Painting

But, all kidding aside I generally use a good sandable automotive primer as my base, rough that up a bit and go with the finish coats be they rattle can or brush. When I go with a latex or acrylic I like to cover that with a good strong clear spar varnish. And with oil base and newer alkyds the spar varnish is not as necessary. Some of the newer alkyd house paints dry very evenly, so brush marks are not a concern. I also use foam smooth surface roller pads are great for large hulls with latex paint.

No matter what, I let everything gas out to the point of madness. Because when you think its dry (especially with oils) it's not. I also do a ridiculous amount of tests....see below. And while I am at it: which Bluebird K-7 color do you like? And can you guess which color I used for my long lost Touchwood K7 Kit?
😉

がいいねしました Len1 and EdW and

#8 1年前

Hand Painting

hahahaha great Jumpugly!

がいいねしました Len1 and jumpugly and

#7 1年前

Hand Painting

This is me at night fretting over the day's paint job hoping all the test shots I did paid off and when I get up in the the morning all will be well.
😂😉

がいいねしました Len1 and ChrisF and

#6 1年前

Hand Painting

Great topic indeed. As a recent returnee to the hobby I am still trying many approaches to painting. Whilst getting good quality results with car type acrylics (Halfords for those in the UK) and clear topcoats I do struggle to know what to do with the inevitable "touch ups" needed or small parts than can only be brushed. How do others handle that? Any top tips?

Most recently I have been using humbrol acrylic spray cans and matched humbrol products for hand paining and touch up. Again getting a true colour match between the tow is a challenge.

がいいねしました Len1 and ChrisF and

#5 1年前

Hand Painting

I have first used two coats of sanding sealer then 2 coats of Quick Dry Rustin's primer undercoat and finish with Humbrol enamel. The primer undercoat is available in 250ml cans and Humbrol enamel in 50ml can. I have chosen these products because they are available in small quantities. The inside of the hull I've painted with epoxy finishing resin. Overall I think the finish is good especially since I haven't got anywhere to spray without damaging surrounding areas with fine clouds of spray!😉

がいいねしました ChrisF and Steve P and

#4 1年前

Hand Painting

I hand painted most of my models. My builds are done in the winter when painting with an aerosol outside is out of the question.

I am a long time plastic model builder with a large selection of brushes. I never invested in an airbrush; my hands are steady and with the use of an over the head magnifying glasses doing detail paint work became easier.

I have used some of the model paints such as Testors or ModelMaster but those little bottles have really gone up in price. Lately, I have been using water clean-up exterior acrylic paint I can get at the local dollar store.

がいいねしました Mike Stoney and ChrisF and

#3 1年前

Hand Painting

I absolutely hate painting! When I have to indulge I use Halfords red oxide as a primer and for below the waterline, for everything else I use Humbrol enamel, acrylics and aerosols, mainly as there is a model shop 5 minutes drive away, Halfords is even nearer!

If it don't fit, use a hammer to make it fit....

がいいねしました AlessandroSPQR and robbob and

#2 1年前

Hand Painting

Hi Chris.
You've opened a very interesting topic, Chris.
I'm very limited on painting models, and any information on this topic is always welcome.

がいいねしました ChrisF and Steve P and

#1 1年前

Hand Painting

Bob/Zooma on his Kopy Kommander thread asked what paint I use to hand paint my models?

I thought I'd start a new topic for other members' so that they can add their choice of paint and thoughts as well, which may well be different dependent on their location in the world.

I use International with the gloss coat being an enamel. The primer/undercoat (good that it's an all in one) I use is One UP and for the top coats I use Toplac Plus. The fact that many owners of full-size Faireys use this is purely coincidental! Well, it did sway me a bit!

Another choice is Craftmaster Paints which again is an enamel.

When I first started looking at paints I was slightly concerned as neither of the above was recommended on the manufacturers' web-sites as being for below the waterline and they produce specialist paints for this purpose which are basically anti-fouling which I didn't want with my builds.

But my thoughts were as follows. Model boats aren't in the water for extended periods of time. Full-size boats, particularly the superstructure are subject to rain and standing water without problem. The Craftmaster enamels are used for steam trains and traction engines etc. and so have to resist rain and steam so a bit of lake running isn't going to bother it! Also many models have been painted with household gloss and have lasted for years without problems. These enamels are a more superior paint but the price does reflect it.

I'd be happy using either of these paints but I think Craftmaster do a wider range of colours due to their extensive use on all types of vehicles, which as well as trains and traction engines includes old cars and lorries. I might try it for a particular shade of blue I want.

As for availability, the paint can be bought online or in my case I use it as an excuse to have a drive to a chandlers and have a look at the narrowboats and other boats on the adjacent canal whilst I'm there.

Have to admit I have a love/hate relationship with hand painting! Love the change it brings to a model but trying to get the required finish and avoiding dust is a real challenge! 😠 Which I usually fail at!

Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn

がいいねしました Mike Stoney and Rookysailor and

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