I used a piece of pvc trunking (for computer cables). I can lift whatever the servo can handle.

I do use Styrene often in my scratch builds, and I have also built three Krick cranes from printed sheet styrene.
I tried being a 'purist' and using solvent glues, but my best results were in using good medium set(15 sec.) CA GLUE..

Bruce the instructions you posted from Krick seem to be for Acrylic and not for styrene. I do not know if the glues for these are interchangeable. Len

When the hull and deck split on my fairwind due to rough parcel post handling although well packed and marked fragile. I used mek to tack back together and then used aeropoxy with light weight 24oz finishing cloth from inside the hull then used mek with a little bit of abs to thicken and weld all crackes and splits tog ether fnished with fine filler and spray seems all ok better than scrapping the hull, and boat hope this helps regards the yacht was a second hand buy regards peter l ⛵⛵⛵

Hi

I prepare my own glue using MEK with some ABS dissolved in it. It is a bit messy to prepare but it securely welds the two pieces of plastic together. I have used this for many years, prior to that I used Acribond 120 which gave good but was very thin and relied on the two parts fitting together very well. MEK with ABS dissolved makes the glue thicker and fills any small gaps.

Stabilite express is what I use but I only find it on a German site, the example of the gluing instructions says acrylic glue? 'Use our recommended glue's' so is a product named in the list of also needed items to build at the front of the instruction booklet.
The weld type joint is best, I use 'coffee stirring sticks from various Coffee shops to apply such glues as Stabilite 2 minutes the sticks have a great radius to provide a lovely corner filet the problem of aesthetics maybe an issue for viewable joints like above deck boom mounts as the Stabilite discolors.

For difficult ABS and Styrene I have used Stabilite Express it seems to stick most

I have attached Kricks glueing instructions.
Acrylic adhesive.Roughen all glueing with sand paper surfaces before appling adhisive do not apply thickglue beads but streak it on.
I am doing everthing they said.
HMMMM

For me I feel the strongest joint between two materials is a "weld" joint. That is where the materials actually dissolve into each other. For that I use standard styrene cements such as Plastruct, Testors, etc. Even acetone (100%, nail polish remover) works as it melts the surface of the styrene. As I occasionally cement ABS (3D printed) parts with styrene sheet and shapes, these work well. Don't use these if you are trying to cement other materials such as copper to styrene.

Lew
Florida 😴, USA

I use this for Krick, and Robbe kits

Bruce! I always use insta-set, just be mindful of the spray and at times resulting smoke fumes while curing. Also, get a a pile of crappy brushes so you can open the insta-set bottle and use a brush to only dab specific areas so you won't broadcast the spray all over the items to be joined.
😉

If it's a Krick Paula, do the instructions not suggest stability, apply?

Thank you all. I went to my local hobby store in my area and asked the same question. They suggested using Maxi-cure extra thick along with Insta set.
here is the info on this. I am trying this product now and will let you know what I found out.
Thank you for your input

Maxi-Cure™ extra thick CA is the best CA for most plastics, including GE’s Lexan MAXI-CURE™ is the best choice for plastic model assembly. When used with INSTA-SET™, it works better than any putty for modifying or filling voids. It can be carved with a knife or razor blade and sanded and feathered to form a finish indistinguishable from plastic. MAXI-CURE™ bonds fiberglass, hardwood, metal and rubber better than any other hobby adhesive. For gluing to the inside, clothtextured surface of fiberglass, scrape the area to be bonded with a razor blade or coarse sandpaper before using MAXI-CURE™ or any other adhesive. It also is best for bonding the tires for R/C cars.

MAXI-CURE™ has proven to be very popular in the archery business for the fletching of vanes onto aluminum and carbon arrow shafts. Along with being the strongest, MAXI-CURE™ is usually the least expensive option for this application.

See this product's reviews on Amazon

https://bsi-inc.com/hobby/maxi_cure.html

Bruce! You are the second person to bring them up to me directly this week!
The other gentleman is a professional architectural model builder and he said he loves them.
I’m psyched to give them a shot!
😊

Jump if you want a great paint in Spray cans 400ML Try Vallejo Hobby paintfor plastics and metal lots of colors and you can get thier bottle paints to match it exactly It goes on easy and evenly drys fast sand easy. I'm really impressed with it.and way cheaper than tamiya paints https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/hobby-paint/scarlet-red-28016/

Like Ken, I go with Tamiya Extra Thin all the time. When I have an assembly that will be under some extra stress I double up with a slow setting epoxy in hidden areas.
When in doubt run some break tests on some scrap if you have some lying about. I am “test” obsessed with glues and especially rattle can paints.
😉

As Len states, the glue is actually a solvent which dissolves the styrene then evaporates which sort of welds the joint together. So, roughing up the joint doesn't help and could hinder though I don't think this is the problem. The joint needs to be close fitting as these solvent glues are not gap filling and, as Len says, squeezed together. ABS is odd in that epoxies will stick temporarily but soon come adrift. There is a special 2 part adhesive for ABS which is like an epoxy and fills gaps. Sorry can't remember the name. Solvent glues should work on styrene and ABS. Could you put a corner fillet of styrene or ABS in the joint or would it spoil the look of the boat?
Good luck, Tim

Bruce I use Tamiya Extra Thin with the green cap which is really thin and wicks into joints very well. I also use Tamiya cement with the orange cap if I precoat the pieces to be joined before I put them together, press the pieces together, let it sit for a short while and then run a bead of extra thin into the joint. It is important to keep pressure on the joint and do not flex or move the joint for a while. The cement actually softens and melts the styrene and you need to give the joint time to fuse together and gain strength. I also use Testors cement. Len