I am with you flaxybuck, I also use tamiya connectors, because that's what I started with. Some time ago I discovered I could purchase gold plated ones on eBay very inexpensively (nearly same price as non-plated ones). I bought a big batch on the cheap This has been a great improvement for me.

If I need small connectors I use something called a "JST" they are similar to what is on the servos, but 2-wire. also eBay purchase.

Wiring is a serious part of the building process for me. I am extremely careful about it. I solder everything I can, and used heat shrink tubing to insulate. I also take extra steps to relieve wire strain.

Don't confuse Tamya and Molex Connectors. The shells may be the same dimensions, but the pins have different dimensions. I believe the Molex male pins are slightly larger Diameter and will over stretch the female Tamya sockets.. You cannot repeatably mix the two!

Similarly, With Deans connectors.. Genuine Deans are a perfect fit with each other, but the Cheaper 'clones' are a sloppy fit and burn our under high load! Always search for the Genuine Connector..

When first getting into this model boats game I purchased a 7.2v battery pack which came with a Tamiya connector. From there-on for a few years I used Tamiyas, but then other club members started to voice their preference for XT connectors, saying everything else is 'rubbish'.
By the time this occurred I had maybe 20 or 25 Tamiya connectors in place and reckoned it would not be worth the while changing them all for XTs. I do have to spend time checking, cleaning and adjusting the contacts in the connectors, time that could be spent enjoying myself !
However, I readily acknowledge that XTs are far superior, and would recommend anyone to use XTs from the outset. 😉

Very interesting!
These are my favourites, which I use most of the time.
Have a nice weekend everyone
Michel-C.
Ps: I "stole" two Ed's photos, forgive me! 🥹🥹🥹

Part 2 – Connectors

Many of you will not agree with me but this is my approach based on years of experience. Connectors are a necessary evil in model boats, so the best approach is to only fit them where it is absolutely necessary. Each connector is a potential point of failure due to vibration, oxidisation and potential dry joints.
A connector on the battery is necessary as it often needs to be removed for charging, an additional connecter can be used at this point as a battery switch/isolator (see picture)
Bullet connectors are desirable on brushless motors as they enable you to change rotation easily. Once sailing trials are completed, these connectors can be replaced by permanent joints that are properly sealed or directly wired to the ESC.
Other connectors I would ask myself if they are really necessary.
As for terminal blocks of any type, avoid at all costs.
Without starting another heated debate, I prefer XT range of connectors as they have proved the most reliable connectors I have used. Ripmax and Tamiya I would avoid unless you have no other option.
I would always attempt to keep my radio equipment in a watertight container and seal all wire access points with silicone and use boots on linkages.

I will cover another method of sealing wiring in my next article - little known magic.

The pictures cover the various connecters available as well as inexpensive tooling to hold the connectors while soldering them. This will ensure good joints and avoid burnt fingers.
The other picture are some of the available moulds to encapsulate the joints on the connectors, when I am able to get back in my workshop I will do a “how to” video of me using my mould.
I am still not able to work in my workshop at the moment so my apologies for the lack of “how to” pictures.

More on Wiring Model Boats to follow-

Ed

Nice to have you back. you look good

Saw the doctor who did my procedure in December today and I am cleared to get back in the workshop. I will continue these articles on my experience on wiring in the next day or two.

No. Completely different company, product. WD 40 is a fine thin lubricant. FLUID FILM will actually dissolve corrosion. I would work in it up to my elbows, so its not terribly toxic, just a little greasy.

Is it also called WD40?
Roy

Ed,

FLUID-FILM.COM

U K: marineco.co.uk

Used it for heavy duty 12V motors working in moisture and corrosion. Its actually application is to un-seize, protect metal parts. I would spray it on the salter & loader parts to keep them from seizing up. Later applied it to the wiring with good results.

Hi Ross

I’m never come across Fluid Film, would be grateful if you could send me some details.
Rosin based flux has no effect and I have never used Acid based flux on wiring (for obvious reasons).
As I previously posted, none of these solutions address the problem under the insulation.

Regards
Ed

Ed, I have used FLUID FILM for years to clean up wiring working outdoors in a Canadian winter. Are you familiar with it? It works well for 12V circuits, not so knowledgeable about outdoor electronic circuits.
What does the old style flux do for this condition?
Thanks
Ross

The only way to fix the dreaded “black wire syndrome” is to replace the wire. The oxidisation can be removed by soaking in an acid solution but this leaves salts that must be totally removed so not practical. Remember that the capillary action causes the oxidisation to “travel” up the wire as well so the only way is to replace the wire. Remember to tin and seal to avoid this again

Further to my post on "black wire syndrome" the black wire does not clean up for soldering. When as clean as possible it will not take to solder. There seems to be a chemical change in the copper which must go quite deep.
Roy

I have used a number of CAD programs over the years but now I use Fusion 360.

Hi Ed,
What kind of CAD do you use? 🤔🤔
Greetings
Michel-C.

Hi All,
I am getting back to normal and managed an hour on my computer doing some CAD design. Tomorrow I intend to write the next episode of Wiring Design.🤞

In terms of the problem with wire wire corrosion in damp environments I have come across it in a number of situations usually low voltage in external computer projects.

The method I have used to repair the wiring was to use white vinegar to clean off the corrosion in the area you wish to solder by soaking for about twenty minutes in the vinegar and then rinsing and drying. After resoldering the joint. The area of the insulation and joint sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink sleaving which is available from many suppliers like component shop.

Hope this helps
Malcolm

Hi Edw never heard any explanation for black wire syndrome before.

I have only seen it in black / negative polarity wires. I got a transmitter working by replacing a 25cm long black wire which was inside and never been in the water! The wire was black inside along iits entire length.

I have only seen black (negative) wires with the problem and they have been paired with other wires that were not affected?

As our electronics gets older battery connections, where soldered, can go greeny blue I presume something like copper sulphate.

I sometimes make up a battery or replace a cell but can only solder, lots of heat applied for a very short time.

I also note that on the old Tx's with cell holders at the back, that the first connection to corrode is the most negative, invariably on the left with the back opened up.

I had guessed it was a feature of NicAD batteries but the subsequent NiMh ones seem to be the same.

With your Navy experience that you mentioned but was that more based on electronics and salt water which does behave differently from pond water. (no criticism intended). As I believe it is more corrosive.

All good stuff please carry on.
Roy

MikeS1, pre tinned wire reduces the chance of oxidation but the capillary action will still happen. This method of sealing the ends is something I learned working on electronics on real ships.

Anchor sell pre tinned wire, used on big boats to reduce the problem should work for models too?

I come from a world where salt corrosion of wiring is an issue. It would go from beyond BLACK CORROSION to GREENIES. Yes, tinning and heat shrink tubing were required to keep operational👍Primary wires are black with red stripe, black and yellow. Heat shrink tube is black