I’ll be doing same. Using .080 plastic fir deck. Either plastic I beams or wood as you did. I have carbon fiber flat stock I used as cross beams on hull left too. I just was looking at layout n thinking the sonar dome in now I may fill up with Lead. As the battery pack will be midships n motor more aft. Guess I’ll water test with motor n battery pack just dropped in hull. Cutting deck today so I need to get the wood glue blocks on hull done faster as I’ll be needing to glue deck next week. It is slow going but fun n relaxing.

Hi Stephen.
Sorry for the delay but I attach the upturned flight deck of my HMS Victotious showing the supports I added to stop the deck flexing.
Supports made from Balsa and steel angled tubing.
Light but effective.
Regards
Bill.

Hi Stephen.
Been away for a few days so sorry for delay in reply.
I agree with Dave’s thoughts in general.
You do have a lot of internal room to play with.
I know you’re having problems uploading pics but would be good to see more.
My main concern is still the flexing of the deck with all the main superstructure on it.
I fear over time it is inevitable that there will be stress damage.
If would help a great deal with support added directly to the underside of the deck.(I had to adopt this with the flight deck on HMS Victorious)I will find some pictures to post.
Are you going to be motorizing the main armament etc?
I will think further and get back to you when settled in again.
Regards
Bill

Hi Stephen
Looking good.
I do believe you could open up the forrard bulkhead similar to that in the middle of the model. This would give you access to the forrard parts via the central opening if you decide to fasten the fore deck permanently, or it could be another lift off section. The second gun has a breakwater almost reaching the deck sides so would make a suitable place to make a break at the front. As you need access to the rudder and the deck seems clean of any fittings it may be best to leave as one piece and there does seem to be plenty of space below the deck to add some strengthening (if required) support ( possibly aluminium extrusion ?). Or you could make another cut near the rear guns and make a lift off back section, making three lift Off section in total. There seems to be ample room to fit the three motors and batteries etc. Neodium magnets would make ideal fixings and you have ample side supports and a hull side that rises to deck level so should form a good seal with a suitable sealant (silicon?). I use the magnets with tin plates (from ex flat sided baked bean cans). Cut a hole to take the magnet in one side of the fixing and glue (epoxy) in place and glue the tin to the other piece. It will form an incredibly strong fixing so experiment on some scrap and provide a means of breaking the bond without breaking the superstructure. I have used magnets in fittings that can be easily removed above deck. I'm sure others will supply their suggestions and you will be able to find a suitable solution. I do believe what you are considering is possible and look forward to seeing how you progress.
dave976

Here is me problem cutting the deck just behind the forward gun reduces the top deck by 7 inches and at the rear the same amount but I would need access to the tiller having issue up loading photos the boat is 51 and by 7 and half wide at the middle

Hi Stephen
having carefully reread your original post it would appear you have a hull with three prop shafts and a rudder fitted and a top deck that lifts off. Normally with a sailing model it is best to fit all the internals into the hull and test float to see how it floats and ballast accordingly allowing for the estimated weight of the topsides.
We really do need to see clear pics of your hull internals from stem to stern plus a view of both sides from the outside. We also need to see your topside build again showing from fore to aft both above and below the deck please. It would also help to know the beam internally. Very often on a triple screw model the centre motor is placed in between the the outer motors and usually this will be towards the stern in between the shafts. On my RMS Olympic this is certainly the case as per the attached picture. The motors are 555's and the beam is 12". Only one motor shown. I use three Mtronik 15amp Esc's all individually controlled.
dave976

When I get home will post some photos of what I had done with the model

Hi Bill
Nice looking model. Weight is always a problem with destroyers. My hull is from Deans Marine and Ron Dean always advised building light with the thinnest of plasticard. Glad to have helped you with planning your rebuild and look forward to seeing how you progress in due course.
Regards
Dave

Hello Dave.
Many thanks for posting your pictures of Grenville’s interior and whole deck removal.
Really good 👍.
In all my previous destroyer builds I have sealed the deck because of low freeboard and had access to machinery thru removing superstructure.
Some years ago I acquired a Pre built static only L03 HMS Cossack and am now thinking of making her seaworthy.(see attached pic)
Everything is over excessively heavily stuck down by who ever built her so I may remove the entire upper works including deck from funnel aft and build internally your way.
Really appreciate your time.
Regards
Bill.👍

Hi Bill (Scratchbuilder)
As requested I attach some photos of the inside of my HMS Grenville. Not been sailed for some years and pics taken in my lockup container so not the best but hopefully show you enough detail to help with your thinking. There is a sound unit installed hence the speaker under the front deck below the front topsides. The motors are (24v) from a mainframe computer but work fine on 12v. I have used 2 10 amp Action ESC's. The servo actuates a microswitch for the Action destroyer sound unit seen tucked under the deck forrard. I actually used two 12v 1.2Ahr SLA's.
dave976

Water gets everywhere! I have not had much luck with hard surface to hard surface. Even "gaskets" are not 100%. So if the seam has any chance of going under it better be pretty good.

The original (manufcturer's) design Graupner Wiesel had a large lift off deck about 2/3's the length of the hull. From the side of the hull (bulwark) to the seam was about 1/2 inch. The deck was held down by tabs with screws in them. (Really ugly!!!)

I changed that by cementing most of the deck in place (sealing the seams) and making cutouts under the shape of the superstructure and features. Only exception is the very aft part of the deck where the seam is pretty well hidden under the torpedo tubes. There is a lot of items (four motors/shafts, two rudders) inside and the access is tight.

Fortunately the freeboard is quite high (Graupner added about 1/2-inch more to the hull depth to compensate for the radio gear). All seems to keep the water out.👌🏾

Lew
Florida, USA

(I'm still looking for the accurate Zobel class plans.)

Hi Dave.
Nice shot of your HMS Grenville.
Have you got any internal shots of the machinery spaces please,especially if your entire rear deck is removable.

Would be interested to see your set up compared to my way of thinking.
Regards
Bill.

Hi Stephen
My HMS Grenville (36" F/Glass hull) has a removeable top from the funnel to stern. The hull has a balsa coaming attached to the inside of the hull and cross pieces to maintain the shape. The deck is plasticard which lays on top of the hull with a similar balsa base that fits inside the coaming. I then attached a thin strip of plasticard to the deck that overhangs the hull. Once painted it is almost invisible and certainly keeps the inside dry. The deck does flex when removing but two hands keep it safe. I use direct drive from two brushed motors with a single ESC. A 12v 1.5Ahr SLA powers the model. Built some years ago so would probably use brushless and LiPos if building today. Look forward to seeing how you progress
dave976

Hi Stephen.
Can you post some pictures of what you have done so far both internally and the exterior.
This will give an idea of availability of space for your inboard build area for all your equipment.

I can see problems trying to lift an entire 48” deck (if that’s your plan) with bending and stress on your superstructure and fittings.
Regards
Bill

Yes magnets tge sun I have has top shell held on bu magnets at rear. Front has a lip that catches below the front section so if you make say 5 inches of front deck glued to body ( at any point you can find a spot where it’s not as visible). The rear has a plasti magnet strip. You cut about inch n half of it fir bottom n top (4 pieces) see how they are polarized of course. Set them a tiny bit below the distance of the section glued to the deck So there is a tiny space between them. It works you can place a pair in center if deck too long. If the hull magnet is slightly below the hull top it will pull down the deck tight. Anyway the Dumas Aloka Russian sun is this way to attach top shell to bottom hull shell. Hope it helps