Thick shavings rapped around a tube. Four or five layers. Stick with wood glue. Cut off size required. Oil tube so it can be removed, after cutting. Yes very strong
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Thick shavings rapped around a tube. Four or five layers. Stick with wood glue. Cut off size required. Oil tube so it can be removed, after cutting. Yes very strong
Hi Mike,
Re: "nice to see some lateral thought ..."
Or was it 'annular' thought? 😉
Outa the box and round the back😁
Fiddly but excellent result Chug👍👍
Cheers, Doug😎
Chugalone was making 'realistic' mast hoops, and the choice of material used therefore important to appearance.
I have made mast hoops from copper pipe, plastic pipe, and copper sheet soldered, but none of these would pass as 'realistic', albeit they would pass the 'ten foot test' 😉
Chugalone was making 'realistic' mast hoops, and the choice of material used therefore important to appearance.
I have made mast hoops from copper pipe, plastic pipe, and copper sheet soldered, but none of these would pass as 'realistic', albeit they would pass the 'ten foot test' 😉
I use psv water pipe cut to size needed, it is what Gary Webb uses on his sailing vessels and he is well liked globally. Bearospaceindustries.com
Granted they are not the wooden hoops of old, but certainly pass the ten foot test.
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Hi Newby7 I make a lot of these fittings, but only use soft soldering as I have found it quite strong enough for the job. I also found I could use hard brass wire in a loop and this soldered up OK with some iron wire holding all in place. I accept that a nicely made silver soldered brass fitting can look very nice all polished up.
I use model aircraft aileron plastic hinges for goosenecks, one end goes into the sail boom and the other is free to rotate in a brass tube soldered to another wider one fitted on the mast. The bottom of the gooseneck is cut to size and a hole drilled in the centre of the hinge i.e. up into the plastic and a screweye inserted. This keeps the hinge in place and a boom vang can be fitted to keep the sail boom down.
I paint them out to hide them, i.e. I paint to match the mast and they go unnoticed.
I have several books by a Mr. Hobbs who was a model yacht 'authority' back in the 30's and 40's. Most fittings are illustrated and could also be bought from the long gone Webbs Fittings company.
I had to use his expertise when restoring a small yacht that used Braine steering, so the old stuff is still useful
regards
Roy
Hi Newby7 I make a lot of these fittings, but only use soft soldering as I have found it quite strong enough for the job. I also found I could use hard brass wire in a loop and this soldered up OK with some iron wire holding all in place. I accept that a nicely made silver soldered brass fitting can look very nice all polished up.
I use model aircraft aileron plastic hinges for goosenecks, one end goes into the sail boom and the other is free to rotate in a brass tube soldered to another wider one fitted on the mast. The bottom of the gooseneck is cut to size and a hole drilled in the centre of the hinge i.e. up into the plastic and a screweye inserted. This keeps the hinge in place and a boom vang can be fitted to keep the sail boom down.
I paint them out to hide them, i.e. I paint to match the mast and they go unnoticed.
I have several books by a Mr. Hobbs who was a model yacht 'authority' back in the 30's and 40's. Most fittings are illustrated and could also be bought from the long gone Webbs Fittings company.
I had to use his expertise when restoring a small yacht that used Braine steering, so the old stuff is still useful
regards
Roy
I've had success with using verious sizes of brass tubing. Cut the size needed to go over the mast and a smaller one silver soldered to the first.
Rick
I've had success with using verious sizes of brass tubing. Cut the size needed to go over the mast and a smaller one silver soldered to the first.
Rick
Thanks for this Chug, a useful tutorial.
Should you have wider material you could take the shavings and make a complete roll, then cut it into rings of the required thickness. This could be less fiddly than making individual rings. Just a thought.😉
Thanks for this Chug, a useful tutorial.
Should you have wider material you could take the shavings and make a complete roll, then cut it into rings of the required thickness. This could be less fiddly than making individual rings. Just a thought.😉
1. To start I choose a piece of scrap 1/4'’ thick mahogany but it could be any type of wood.
Grabbed my hand planer and shave enough long pieces according to the quantity of hoops that you will need.
2. Then I used a piece of brass tubing that I previously slipped over my mast making sure that will be round enough to fit over the thickest part of the mast with some slack.
I cover the brass tubing with a few turns of wax paper so when gluing the shavings together wont stick to the tube.
3."Carefully" grab the brittle shavings because they are very easy to brake. Soak them in water for at least one hour for more elasticity and have ready another container with a 50/50 mixture of white wood glue and water.
After the shavings are soft enough, pull them out the water and again, carefully wrap them with at least 4 turns over the waxed tubing and use any kind of clip to keep it together and let them dry over night.
4. After drying, pull them from the tubing and turn upside-down your favorite sanding block or have a piece of sanding paper laying on a flat surface and sand down the desired thickness and finish with a good sealer.
By using mahogany you will get a very nice color hoop like the ones showing in these pictures.
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1. To start I choose a piece of scrap 1/4'’ thick mahogany but it could be any type of wood.
Grabbed my hand planer and shave enough long pieces according to the quantity of hoops that you will need.
2. Then I used a piece of brass tubing that I previously slipped over my mast making sure that will be round enough to fit over the thickest part of the mast with some slack.
I cover the brass tubing with a few turns of wax paper so when gluing the shavings together wont stick to the tube.
3."Carefully" grab the brittle shavings because they are very easy to brake. Soak them in water for at least one hour for more elasticity and have ready another container with a 50/50 mixture of white wood glue and water.
After the shavings are soft enough, pull them out the water and again, carefully wrap them with at least 4 turns over the waxed tubing and use any kind of clip to keep it together and let them dry over night.
4. After drying, pull them from the tubing and turn upside-down your favorite sanding block or have a piece of sanding paper laying on a flat surface and sand down the desired thickness and finish with a good sealer.
By using mahogany you will get a very nice color hoop like the ones showing in these pictures.