Starting a new build as Covid 19 rages in the USA due to lack of national leadership. Looks like I will be in lockdown for many months to come. I beat Cancer stage 4, but have no control over political insanity, so I will just stay put at home and make yet another yacht!

In the past I have built several US1 Meter racing yachts, but when fighting cancer I gave them away to friends so as not to burden my wife. Having survived it's time to get on with life so I will build a new fleet!

I had such great success with the laser cut frames from StevensAero on my 45 build that I ordered the "hull 16 frames designed by Magnus Clarke" from the same source.

Some shots of the sheets received today, fast shipping!

Pulled out the building board from my 45 build and cleaned it for this new build. May have to modify it due to the narrower US1M, we will see.

Keep busy and stay safe!
Joe 😎

Last night I realized that the frames as purchased were solid, 🤔 so they had no openings for hull access or slots to aid in removal from the building board. So I laid out openings based on using a 2 1/2" hole saw and a 1 3/8" forstner bit. Drew on each frame, but forgot to take a photo.

Photos show before and after with openings cut. Horizontal slots are for removal from building board. Stack of frames shown are just rough cut and each will be hand sanded prior to installation on the building board.
Joe 😎😋

Started placing and glueing frames to the building board using 4 squares at a time to ensure that they stay plumb, vertical and square. One at a time with ca glue at the base. Using foamcore board, I cut spacers 97mm wide , to place between the frames after the ca had set. The spacers will remain loose so I can move them during planking. As the frames are a bit flexible, these will help keep them aligned during keel and stringer installation. I used this method on my Star 45 build and it worked well.

The progress shown just took about 2 hours, I'm able to move quicker as I had my learning curve on the 45 build.

Now I am sorting my basswood to select keel and stringer material. I will give the frames a few hours before placing the keel first, then the stringers. Should be able to do this later today. Having fun! 😁
Joe 😎

Starting to plank the hull. Using 1/8"×3"×48" balsa sheets, I cut strips about 8mm wide. First placed two balsa planks against the basswood keel plank. I will place two on each side at the boat sheer. From that point I will begin tapering as necessary to cover the hull. I intend to take it slow as I am not very experienced with this process. I am reading a lot about it and will give it my best shot! 🙄🙄🙄🙄
Joe

Working with two planks at a time, one for each hull side, I mark the taper on the 8.3mm wide planks. Then using the pictured rasp-like thing, (don't know the proper name,) I trim each plank to the taper line. Usually I prefer to use my small Stanley planes but they did not work well with this balsa.

Continuing to plank and let dry, I have been getting about 6 planks per day. Not a lot but I have no schedule! It's a hobby, No Hobby Police around here 😉!

Joe 😎

Finished the balsa planking Friday night. Then I spent Saturday block sanding the hull with 120 grit sandpaper. Very dusty work so I did it all outside on a portable workbench. Of course I forgot to take more photos during sanding.

I glued a chunk of balsa on the bow and then sanded to shape. Ready to start glassing but will wait until morning when I will have the whole day and hope to get several coats on while green.

Pete, I have not forgotten about your question regarding calculating plank taper. I just haven't got around to sketching something up. Will do.
Joe 😎

Pete,
As promised but delayed a bit, I have attached images showing how I calculated taper.

Last photo shows the build stage that I was at when I did the calcs.....all frames in, keel planks and shear planks in per first sketch.

First sketch showing bulhead / frame. Since each frame will be different, first measure the dimension X shown. I did this in mm as this is the easiest.

Next I recorded these dimensions for frames 1-10 plus the stem (bow).

Third image shows my chart. 1st column is frame station. 2nd is dimension in mm.

Jumping to column 5, this shows the taper in percentages. Since frames 5 & 6 are 134mm, the largest distance, this becomes 100%. Then each other frame is calculated for the taper percentage. Example, frame 2 is 110mm divided by 134 mm = 82%. Record these in column 5.

Column 3 shows this in actual plank width. Since I knew that I wanted planks about 8mm, I divided 134 into 16 divisions to give me a starting plank width of 8.37mm. Multiplied 8.37mm times each station % gave me the taper widths. For example frame 8 is 7.2mm.

I took a full plank at 8.37mm and marked the station location by holding it on the hull frames and penciling lines. Then a each frame line I used a caliper to mark my widths. Then it is just connecting the dots and draw a taper line.

Once shaved to the line, I used this plank as a template and marked each plank.

This constant taper worked pretty well until I got down to the last 3 planks on each side. Then I just adjusted the taper to fill the gaps.

It worked out pretty well.....at least I no longer have a Fear of planking!😂😂😂🤣😉

Joe 😎

Glassed the hull using the very light .75oz cloth. Using West Systems 105/206, I was able to get the initial coat plus a 2nd resin coat done during the same day.

Next, I plan to cut the stern to create a reverse rake transom. In addition, I am debating the deck design - flat vs curved vs combination of both. Since I have time I may have some fun with it and add some complexity.

Stay safe.
Joe 😎

Hull has been removed from the building board. Working on rudder support, keel and mast steps.

Yes, I know it's just one photo, but at least I remembered to take a photo before I glassed this rudder. I had laminated multiple layers of 1/8" plywood, now I am shaving and shaping with my small plane. I like the wood pattern that shows up!
Joe 😎 🙉