Purchased a glassfibre hull for this vessel from "Models by Design" and brought it back to Canada from the UK. The hull moulding requires minor rework, but nothing unexpected, I am happy with the product (photo # 1).
Whilst the hull is sold for the Bulldog, I am building her sister-ship, the Beagle.
First part of project (after checking dimensions and hull form) was to make up a framework (photo # 2) which has been glued into hull (photo # 3). The frame is to add stiffness, give some separation of "compartments" and to create a structure onto which the drive and electrical components can fitted.

After much measuring and adjustment finally epoxied the bulkhead structure into hull. Have established that although the port bulwarks are the correct height and shape, the starboard are have been cut slightly too low at the stern ends. Built these up to correct height with plywood and reinforced with glass fibre.
Would be ideal if manufacturers of preformed hulls left them slightly oversize, so the modeler can cut down to size. Much easier that adding slivers of plywood.
Have now also fitted bilge keels and propeller shafts.

Continued with hull by adding portholes and anchor boxes. Starting on deck and have decided to take a slightly different approach.
I would like to retain as much access to the hull interior as I can so will make up the deck from two pieces, a "skirt" about 1" wide that will contain the bulwark stanchions and waterways. Onto this will add a detachable deck, which will be planked. The superstructure will also be removable for routine access, but if full access is needed the deck can be removed.

Started work on the foredeck area.
Added the deck wash port slots by making an alloy template and then drilling and filing to the template dimensions.
Also added the the fairleads. Made these out of sections of a plastic syringe body, cut to length and hot swaged over a leather hole hunch to give a tapered appearance. Drilled and filed the holes in the bulwark oval and the epoxied the fairleads into position.
Built the outside of the hull up with epoxy and the filed it to the correct shape and protrusion.
The same technique was used on the bull lead, but with styrene tubing as the hole is bigger. Sleeved the tubing with more styrene and filed to produce the profile.

Whilst there is still access to the "engine" areas decided to finalize the motor mounts. The attached picture shows the process. I concentrate on getting the alignment correct, so this takes quite some
As you can see replaced the flexible HUCO style joint with styrene rod cut to the same length. The brass couplings are inserted into the ends of the rod so the alignment is maintained.
The motors were mounted on a short bulkhead which was initially tacked into the hull. Once the alignment was established the bulkhead was epoxied in place and the dummy sleeves removed.
A small rubber block was inserted lightly into the gap between the motor casing and hull to relieved the weight on the bulkhead.

The hull is nearing completion; added the capping strips to the bulwarks, made roller fairleads and generally tidied up the hull. Next comes the making the removable deck onto which the planking will be fitted.

Guess spoke to soon! Needed to add portholes whilst easy interior access was still available. Decided to make them out of 5/16" o.d. styrene tube for the outer frame and a 1/4" acrylic rod insert to resemble the glass. Cut them up from the lengths of rod using a pipe cutter.
Epoxied the outer frame into holes drilled into the hull and filled any gaps up with epoxy. Have left the glasses out until the painting is complete. The cut acrylic rod surfaces do require polishing to remove the cutting marks.
After completing this installation, tidied all the loose ends up, now onto the removable decking.

Fitted the under deck in two sections, forward and stern. Whilst this does not take long to describe, it requires very careful measurement and cutting to ensure a good fit.
Made up the rudders. These were made from styrene sheet, heated and bent double around a brass rod. The rudder shaft was inserted in the correct location and then CA glued into place.
Glued the open halves of the sheet together and trimmed to final dimensions. Filled cavity surrounding shaft with epoxy adhesive.
Once set, filed excess off and the rudders were complete with a correct section and shape.
Rudders primed and painted.
The rudder shaft tubes had previously been installed into a wooden block glued in the hull to provide a rigid mounting.

With still unrestricted access to the bottom of the hull, decided it was time to install the main electrical system.
Mounted this above the motors on a styrene base and used terminal posts so the various connections could be fitted and removed easily.
2 x Viper ESCs and a Planet 2.4g Rx were fitted.
Have not confirmed the final SLA battery locations until the ballast checks have been completed.
The original plan was to use 12 volts, but have been recommended to reduce to 6 to give a more realistic water speed.
The picture also shows the top of a water ingress monitor and an adjustable voltage regulator. Fitted this so the voltage to the radar scanner and LEDs could be refined.
Used a relay on the switch circuit so a small control switch could be fitted.
The rudder linkage is fairly standard as can be seen.
Tested and everything works as hoped.

Working through the many finishing touches to the hull, but it is essentially complete. Even got the first coats of paint on! The pre-paint preparation was quite quick as the hull moulding was well finished.
Obtained the deck planking; this is laser cut basswood with an uncut portion at the end of each sheet to aid installation. Have now started planking, this uncut portion does hold the strips in alignment and appears to help gluing them down straight.
As this process is likely to take some time, with not very evident progress, may not be writing further updates until this milestone is complete.