Hi y’all. So, the “Mystery” has maidened, and handled her sea trials with flying colors. My bench was busy the past couple of weeks with repair and minor restoration of our antique “Pom Pom” aluminum Christmas tree. We’ve had it since the 90s my wife found it at an antique store and brought it home. She still thought it was….errr…tacky, and that I was quite out of my mind, but once I had it up, trimmed, and the color wheel shining on it she changed her mind. It needed some sprucing up and minor repair to the branches, as the tape that holds the aluminum “leaves” was failing, so I used a little ca and almost as good as new!!

Anyhow…I’ve been looking at the Aeronaut Pilot boat for a few years, finally pulled the trigger a few months ago. It’s a fairly well thought out kit. It’s a traditional built up hull, but all the frames, keels, etc are laser cut abs. It comes with that, hardware, metal etched parts, it’s nice. I was off today, so I started the hull.
The kit comes with a precut cardboard jig for the hull, the frames have tabs and the jig is marked as to what frame goes where. Frame number 5 is also the motor mounts. The slots that are pre cut are a little too wide for a speed 400 or 28mm outrunner, but there were punch outs for the correct spacing, so I drilled those and marked them. You add the keel first, then the deck and chine stringers. The main “fun” was sheeting the hull with the precut abs sides and bottoms. The hardest part was getting the bow seam right. I tried to do it as the instructions stated, using tape to hol everything in place, but I finally had to do it by tacking the sides to the bow, bending and occasionally cursing till I got a good fit. The bottoms were just about as bad, but I got it done.The instructions do tell you to glue to the keel and stringers first, then the frames if they’re touching the sides, so I did that. There’s also use of copious amounts of Stabilit Express used to fill any gaps, etc. Thats next up. I plan to lay in some balsa for filler in places to sturdy up the hull, then I have to build the transom. Once that’s done I need to get a couple of 900 kv outrunners ordered, then I can start mounting the running gear. I plan to add lights, and this boat has provisions for a lot of lights. She’s going to take me a while to build…stay tuned!!

Hi y’all. Got some more done this morning. I had started the stuffing tubes earlier this week, I had a motor that I used as a use to get the tubes lined up and tacked into place. I had to relieve the frame/mount to get it lined up as I like to use solid coupler when I can. A little tweaking and I’m satisfied with the fit. My motors came in a few days ago, so I got those mounted, then I did some reinforcement at the transom with some thin balsa, some ca then a coating of epoxy. The rudder linkage and servo plate was up next. Only real thing I don’t like about this kit is that once the deck is on, there’s not a lot you can do with the linkage as it’s covered by the deck. So, once I had the rudder tubes tacked in place I decided to use the kit arms, but I used locking nuts on the threaded part of the rudder shafts, then lined up the arms and ruddders and tightened them in place. I then backed the nuts up just a bit to jam up against the arms. Lastly I used a simplified linkage in lieu of the kit barrel fasteners as I feel it’s more foolproof,and less likely to give me trouble down the line. Also, the kit instructions state to have the rudder tubes extend one millimeter from the bottom of the hull. I’ve read some previous builds where e builder had to remove some of rudder to clear the hull when hard over. I elected to have the tubes extend out by about 6 mm to give adequate clearance at full throw.
Next up is to either use Stabilit or epoxy and microballoons to fir in and seal the joints externally as per the instructions, fill the stuffing tube slots, and paint the entire inner hull in 30 minute epoxy. Then I’ll leak check it with some ballast on board before I add on the deck.
Cash

Hi y’all. I had a little time this evening, so I did the Stabilit fill where the hull bottom meets the chine stringers. I first taped the hull right up to where the hull sides and bottom meet the stringers, then once done I mixed up som Stabilit and basically filled the area between the hull bottom and sides. Before the Stabilit was fully cured, I pulled the tape. I’m going to let this cure overnight, fill any low spots that’s left, and sand it smooth. After this I have some minor seam filling to do, then it’s epoxy time for the inside of the hull.

Hi y’all. I spent most of my building today mixing epoxy, filling and “painting” every seam in the hull to make darn sure it’s watertight. My procedure was this. I would mix up a batch of epoxy, heat it so that it would pour and flow nicely, turn the hull on its side and fill underneath the chine stringer and hull bottom joint. Once both sides were done and cured I inverted the hull, laid tape out and made sure the stuffing box exits were adequately filled. I pulled the tape before the epoxy was fully set, made a neat(ish) job. I then mixed up some 15 minute with filler and painted down both sides of the keel, and filled the bow area, and around the stuffing box. I was going to float her for a leak check but my wife was doing a projec in the bathroom, so I poured water in the hull, and tilted it to check the seams. Sure enough I had a small seepage at the very corner of the stern. I poured the water out, dried the inside, sealed the leak and tested again, and we’re good. I then added the rudder servo and associated linkage.
A couple of thoughts. I really, really wish that Aeronaut had either provided a molded hull, either one or two piece, or had done the keel, frames and skins from ply. A ply keel and internal structure would be a little stiffer, as the plastic is a bit flexible, and plywood or even hard balsa has a grain, so there inherent stiffness in the parts proper. Also, a wood hull can be fiberglassed. I really thought about trying to glass this hull with light glass, but I just don’t know how it would have come out. Also, if you build one of these, you better make darn sure you’re rudder linkage is straight and the set screws are torqued down tight…like gorilla tight. Might want to use a little blue thread locker too. Once the deck is on there is no way to access the grub screws if you need to, and there’s no provision for an access hatch. That’s a mod I may or may not make, I’ll see how it goes.
Once I double check all the joints the deck is next.
Cash

Hi all. I decided to do a bit more tonight. I made up a couple of braces for the #5 frame/motor mount to stiffen it up a bit more, I used scrap from the kit. I then heated up and bent a styrene tube and glued in place from the bow to just shy of the deck opening. This will be used to guide the bow light leads back to the middle of the boat when I start rigging the lighting. I then installed the deck support beams, and proceeded to install the deck. I used 30 minute epoxy, but I added a bit of filler, and the epoxy must have reacted to the micro balloons as it started to cook off in 10 minutes. I barely got the deck on and lined up before the epoxy started curing. I’m leaving overnight, will check the bond in a day or so.
Cash

Hi y’all. So….the epoxy that fired waaaayyy before 30 minutes held on one side, was sketchy on the other, so I had to clean it best I could, and use ca to get it laid down again. The kit comes with an abs rubrail, which the instructions state can be deleted in lieu of a rubber rail. I decided to use the abs as it will be glued to the hull and the underside of the deck before it’s trimmed back, and I feel it will give me a better more stable hull to deck joint. Once the deck, rail and hull were bonded together I tried to give the hull a little twist just to hear if anything creaked or popped, indicating a failed glue joint. Nothing..quiet and stiff as a board,once it’s all glued together this kit makes a nice monocoque hull!! After trimming and copious sanding I tackled the hatch coming, which was rather easy and uneventful. I then decided to wire up the fwd LED bulbs for the bow light. I looked at the bow light housing parts and came to the conclusion that there would be precious little space for the wiring alone, much less the needed resistors, but after conferring with my buddy JP who has used quite a few LEDs in the past on his night fly planes, I decided to wire them up and install the resistors further down the cables after they exit the tube near the hatch. Once the housing is painted and ready for final install, they will be checked again before I glue the unit in place. I then built up the housing, the bulwarks supports and installed the bulwarks. Now, I filled the openings at the bottom of the bulwarks…I’ve seen some builds where they were left open, like freeing ports, but the box art shows them filled, and I like that better so…that’s what I did. I then test fit the fwd light housing and trimmed the bulwarks to get a good fit.
I need to clean up the hull now, and get it ready for primer. After the first coat any “oopsies” will stand out, and I can attend to that then second coat with primer. After that, I have a sequence I need to follow. Paint the deck, once dry I need to retest the fwd LEDs, then button up that unit, prime and paint the light housing same color as the hull. Mask the deck, paint the hull and inner bulwarks, then install the light housing and associated metal parts, such as the upper grate and steps. Then I can start on the pilot house.
Cash

Hi y’all. The bulwark supports that I built last week and the forward bow light assembly is installed. On looking at color schemes for pilot boats I’ve found several that are one color save the waterline, deck and hull colors are the same.I’ve decided to go that route as it will save me some time and possible frustration. I’m still on the fence on the color though.
So, since I made that decision I went ahead with the installation of the light and supports. I tested the light assembly on the bench, found that one led wasn’t working. One of the leads was bad, looked like a clean cut. Have no idea how that happened, but I soldered and shrink wrapped the repair, and installed the light assembly. I then bench checked the LEDs and both are good. I turned my attention to what the instructions call a deck shelter. It’s made up of several pieces of laser cut abs, went together without a whole lot of drama or fiddling.
I gave the boat a coat of light primer to help find flaws that need to be sanded and or filled, the primer brings that out well, makes it easier to find what needs attention. Last thing I built up was the instrument panel. This consists of 2 abs parts, 2 strips, a decal and an etched metal overlay. There are holes in the bottom plate for LEDs or incandescents, the upper part has the instruments cut out so when the panel is lit the light shines thru, and the metal overlay is also cut to suit.
My next job is to start the cabin. Also, there are several etched parts for steps, walkways etc, I’m seriously thinking about going with bare metal and clear. The box art shows all that and the rails painted white, some of the actual boats I’ve seen pictured have black or gray railing and steps. I have some paint decisions to make soon!!🤣
Cash

Hi y’all. Had to work yesterday as my coworker Kevin, was having severe leg pain, turns out he had a blood clot!! He’s ok,but he obviously was in no shape to work yesterday. Kevin pulls every Saturday as he has nothing he likes to do on the weekends, so he’s off Monday. Anyway, our other counter guy couldn’t make it so I filled in, so my building session was today.
The deckhouse is built up from various laser cut ABS parts. Now, the only real gripe I have about this kit is the lack of a full size plan. Aeronaut was smart in the way they configured the the tab and slot construction. While I won’t say that the parts just “fell into place”, as there is a bit of trimming and “fiddling” to get everything lined up, it’s not much. The hull was a little challenging, but so far the deckhouse is a mite easier. That being said…I still want a full size drawing.
Anyway, the first thing the builder does is to get the floor ready. The floor frame has the front and rear cabin floor attached by 8 total lugs and screws. This allows paint and detail of the seats and other items then the whole floor is installed from the bottom up. It also allows for internal repairs if needed.
I then started to build the deckhouse proper. I won’t go into a blow by blow here, just a few points. I’ve already added some of the windows. These are precut and have a protective film that’s removed once the paint is done. They are a slightly loose fit in the window cutouts of the house. I elected to use old school Testors cellulose cement here, as it was easy to manage and dries reasonably fast. I tied to get the windows as flush as possible with the outer sides of the house, as the metal etch window frames just overlap bot the sides and the window once centered. When they are installed they will help hold the windows in place. The most challenging part of the build was getting the windscreen frames in place, that took cost of the sanding and fiddling to fit well, but it went together fairly nicely.
That’s where I’m at now. I still have to do the roof, rest of the glazing, fill, sand, primer, paint, details, etc. and of course I have to light up the instrument panel and make up some cabin lights. I’m roughly halfway there, maybe a little less. She might splash by sometime mid October.
Cash

Hi y’all. I was able to get the upper forward portion of the pilot house done this weekend, and the seats and tables minus the seat supports. I’ve elected to paint the seats brown. I’m now at a point where I have to do the interior details, lights, wiring and such before I permanently install the upper roof. I have to change up the sequence so I can have room to mask and unmask the control panel, and also remove the inner masking from the windows. Once all the lights are installed and tested, all interior details and paint done, and all inner masking removed I will then permanently mount the roof.
The upper roof was a bit of a PIA to build simply because I was gluing it together as a separate unit, and not to the cabin.I did glue the parts to the fwd upper frame as that slips into slots in the cabin proper, and used tape where needed to keep parts from moving around till bonded. However, it took 2 tries to get it right!!😂 Going forward I really wish Aeronaut would update their instructions to advise the builder that if he or she is going to light the mast, nav and control panel then it would be easier and advisable to get that and all related interior work done before buttoning up the pilot house. When I came to this I checked a couple of build logs and found that I’m not the only person to catch this.
The seats and tables are built up from the laser cut pieces you see in the pics. The seats got easier as I built them. Again, with this kit some things have to be done to whatever sequence you are comfortable with. I als elected to sand the top of the seats flat, glue on a scrap piece of abs and trim/sand to suit. The instructions want you to glue a very tiny piece between the upper sides of the seat then sand to finish, I think my way was easier and looks just as good.
I’m at a conundrum here, and would like a little advice. I’m going to light the aft part of the cabin, where there’s multiple seats for outgoing pilots and probably a break room for the crew (need a 1/25 scale coffemaker!) but thinking about not lighting up the fwd cabin save for the control panel. From what I understand most ships bridge are not brightly lit at night so the pilot and crew can see outside more clearly, and I know military vessels use red lighting at night for anti glare purposes. Am I on the right track? I know it’s a “representative “ model, and not completely scale, but I want it to be “right” to the best of my ability and patience. Do civilian ships use red night lighting? Any ideas, comments and/or slightly sarcastic remarks appreciated.
Cash

Hi y’all. I was off this Friday, so I did a little work in the shop that day and today. I got the seats and floors painted, then mounted the seats. I painted the tables and mounted them also. After I had looking decent, I painted the interior. I had to mask the instrument panel, so to make it easier on myself I used the cut out portion of the decal sheet the instrument panel decal came from as a template to cut my mask. Worked like a champ! Once that was done I took the protective film off the inside of the windows.
I then decided to do the interior lighting. At first I was going to use 2 red LEDS to light the panel, but they were fairly dim. So, I used one red 3mm incandescent for the panel, and used the 2 LEDS on the upper back wall for bridge lighting. I was able to hide most of the wiring, but the resistor.is covered by a thickish shrink tube, so I painted that gray to match the interior, the effect being a mains cable for the bridge. I had some modern work/deck lamps in my stash, I used one with a clear bulb for the aft crew/break compartment. I braided the cables, painted gray and ran down the aft corner. I then used the safety/warning/notice decal from the sheet, applied it to a white plasticard background and glued it to the aft bridge wall, and built up a first aid box from a modified Lego and scrap abs, painted base white, applied the Red Cross decal and glued it to the same wall on the opposite side. I then installed the windows in the two cabin doors and primed them.
This will be my last entry for a bit, my wife and I are going to Mobile Alabama next week for a few days so she can hang on the beach, and I can just relax and not do much of anything.
Cash