This project started in November 2012, after spotting this on Ebay, my daughter bought for me as a birthday present. Picture was taken on its arrival and to be honest it looked fine and first thoughts were encouraging.

It was felt that with a repaint (removal of the original paint first) and some rework of the engine bay. it had been I.C. powered originally, and some other reworking it would be a pretty easy short "project"

HOW WRONG I WAS.... 😭 😭

Mike

Well the first job was to remove the original paint work, normally this would have been done with the good old paint remover "Nitromors" which works well but can be very messy....but after an e-mail from a fellow club member he recommended this stuff....at first I thought it to be a "bit of a joke".
Anyway after a bit of internet research...he was right...the stuff is Fairy Power Spray, and can be found in most Supermarkets, its expensive but its very user friendly, and it does not smell.
I all I use 3 bottles of the stuff and cost me £10.50.
Having got the original paint off a few flaws in the hull showed up but at this stage nothing to worry about....HOW WRONG WAS I... 😭
Mike

With all the original paint removed, the flaws in the hull are to be seen, were the patches of paint have not come off, after the hull had been sanded. The next stage was to attack the engine room, as mentioned this was originally IC powered boat....and the only way to do this was with a "hammer and chisel".. 😈
Having taken out the motor mount....this is when this project became a "Troubled Project".... 😭
Mike

Well on closer inspection of the bottom skins due to IC fuel attacking the plywood it was starting to de-laminate, I had 2 options patch or fit completely new skins. After much soul searching I decided to go for option 2 "new skins"....so it was of with the skins 😱
Having removed the skins other problems came to light, namely the chine stringers were not fitted well by the original builder. So it was of with the stringers 😟
Next having checked the rest of the hull and on further investigation the original keel was not in good condition, this been attacked by IC engine fuel so it was down for replacement...the advantage of this was it could be made in one piece, not like the original which was in 2 pieces.
After all that...the new skins were replaced the only thing different from the original the skins finished at the 1st bulkhead. As I am going to use Balsa block for the bow. With the bottom skins on it was time to look at fitting the prop shafts, rudders and motors.
Mike

Next came the power train, this is 2 800watt brushless motors, mounted on watercooled motormounts, 2 x 60amp Seaking ESC's. it was decided that fitting the prop shafts, motors, rudders would be easier before the side skins were fitted...this advice came from fellow club mate Les Harvey and how right he was..( me being a Aeromodeller for 50 years I am still learning about boat building)
Also a chat with the late Peter Henshaw he convinced me to use flush water scoops, as opposed to the original brass tube type.
Hopefully the pictures tell the story, bytheway the plasticine was used to make the wedges , and though the picture shows a fexible coupling, I made a solid coupling to get the shafts lined up.
Mike

Well starting to get there all the skins are on the hull, and the bow has been filled with Balsa block....I am hoping that this method has worked It looks like It has.
May not post for a while....but you never know.

Mike