Having thought about doing a blog on this build for some time I have finally decided to give it a go and see how I get on. First and foremost this is a kit by Mountfleet, and it really does leave a little to be desired as in the quality of the fiberglass mouldings and the white metal fittings. It is not by any stretch of the imagination the company it used to be before the major fire they suffered some years ago. I have always liked the Clyde Puffers as great little working boats full of character and nostalgia, plus there is still one or two still working around the Islands on the west coast of Scotland. I think they are more involved these days with tourists and sightseers than carrying freight, although I dare say they still carry some occasionally. My personal preference is to build working boats from the 30s and 40s that were powered by steam engines. The reason I have left it this long is the very unconventional layout with the boiler and steam engine both at the back end of the boat. Then I had this idea with regard to using sprockets chains and shafts, not forgetting the bearings, to run the propshaft around the boiler and position the engine in front of the boiler. I think you will need to check the photos to see where I am coming from on that one. These first photos are from the kit brochure and I think the weathering has been somewhat over-done. It looks like it needs a good wash down. Any comments or suggestions I will gladly take on board, as I am making this up as I go and I am hoping this works out, time will tell. Regards, Gary.

The steam engine and boiler for the Puffer have been borrowed from my Topaz (Edwardian) Steam Launch a static model with no radio gear installed. Consequently, despite the age of the steam plant, it has never been fired up as such either in anger or otherwise. Cheddar in their time made some really well-engineered engines and the Gemini is a shining example of that era. The boiler which measures 3" x 6" is none conventual as the chimney and burner are both at the same end, as opposed to the normal center flue with burner and chimney at opposite ends. So having positioned the boiler on its base plate to line up with the engine housing chimney, and with the burner at the back end. A short prop shaft was fitted and the rudder also. The problem is to get the propshaft to run around the boiler and connect to the engine. this was done using sprockets, chains, shafts and bearings from Micromold. To be perfectly honest this actually works rather well, and much better than I expected. I think the photos are hopefully self-explanatory, there are two chains one from the propshaft to the drive shaft which is fastened to the hull and runs the length of the boiler, this terminates at a second chain which is coupled to the engine. There is also a few photos of the steam plant and engine. I still have some modifications to make to the steam plant to make better access to control valves. I need to finish the steam plant work and fit it into the hull, then make sure everything works alright before I fasten the decks down, I have been thinking along the lines of a visit to the boating lake also before the decking and finishing. that is about it for this one, I will try and answer questions and comments. Regards, Gary.

Continuing from where I left off in the last episode. I ordered aluminium sheet for the steam plant base at 1/8" thickness and cut too size, from Metals4U an extremely helpful company and reasonable prices. The base plate is mounted onto several pieces of 1/2" channel, having marked the hull bottom with the positions of the channel, the channels are filled to overflowing with epoxy car filler and fitted where required, then the base plate shaped to fit the hull, is positioned on to the channels and levelled with a spirit level, the excess filler is removed when still soft with a sharp knife. The support channels were then reinforced with milliput epoxy putty, then 2.5mm socket screws were used to secure the base to the support channels. Next up is the positioning of the four main components that make up the steam plant, the boiler first positioned so as the boiler chimney matches perfectly with the superstructure chimney, followed by the steam engine which is positioned reasonably central in the main hold, as this needs to be accessible in order to oil bearings and moving parts, as well as filling and emptying the lubricator. The condenser and automatic gas regulator were fitted on opposite sides of the main hold again very much with access in mind. Three servos are required to operate engine speed, forward and reverse, and the gas cut off valve which is definitely a must-have feature, as I am only too aware of what can happen and does happen if you do not fit this common-sense safety feature. Next up we have the servo linkages which I try to keep reasonably short and horizontal which means all of the servos are raised using alloy rectangular box section, the servos are fitted into rectangular box section as a method of securing the same, (servo full metal jacket.) Having arrived at this stage now you have the problem of fitting the copper piping, and I have never ever managed to get this completely right at my first attempt, as soon as a pipe is fitted realization dawns that if I had done it this way I would have a shorter pipe with fewer bends. I would strongly recommend don't silver solder any ferrules or fittings until the pipework is complete and cannot be improved. Brass hexagon bar measuring 8mm across the flats as per 2BA spanner is very useful for making couplings especially when you have 1/4"x 40 ME at one end and 1/4"x 32 ME at the other. ME (Model Engineer) Taps and Dies are a very good investment when involved with steam. Well I reckon that's about it for this one, so should you have any questions or require further information, then don't hesitate to get in touch. Regards, Gary.

Just a little add-on bit to go with the last write-up. Today was spent testing two gas burners made for a Cheddar Boiler, the original burner was ceramic and worked quite well or at least I thought so until I tested the second one which was definitely better, and improved when I lifted the jet and holder slightly to let in more air. By placing a 6mm drill which is a good fit through the two air holes in the tube which holds the holder, then fitting the jet and holder into this tube until in sat on top of the drill bit, this seemed to be the best position as no yellow in the flame only a nice shade of baby blue, and the flame was a good 6" long, perfect. The second burner has a round drilled meta disc with a very fine steel mesh behind it, this burner was also much quieter than the first one. Regards Gary

Sorry folks a whole month has passed since my last epistle, this is due to a combination of the building of a lathe, and I think slowing down a bit with old age. However, the lathe is very nearly finished now, which is just as well as I need to make some fittings with it, and then it is back to the Puffer. Regards, and Episode 4 is coming, mind, so is Christmas. Take care, Gary.

This has been a long time coming and I am now in a position where I can say it is almost complete. It is not quite to scale as I had to extend the rear deck slightly to give access to the pressure relief valve as this is also my boiler filling point. Plus, I have slightly enlarged the hatch opening and cover, with regard to better access to the steam engine and control valves. I had a problem with the pressure-controlled gas valve, which did not work despite the fact I gave it a damn good looking at. I then forked out another £70 for a manual version of the same to find exactly the same problem, they were both bought from Microcosm care of Mr. Galgig. In the end, I decided to remove this valve and manage without it. The steam plant was tested both inside and outside of the boat before the deck was fitted and fastened in place. The boiler is extremely efficent and will hold a three bar pressure with the engine running at a normal speed which I find quite surprising everything considered. As the pressure valve is set at 4 bar to operate this does tend to leak a bit at 3 plus bar, and a pipe was fitted in front of the wheelhouse engine superstructure. This was an afterthought and does look a bit odd, but I didn't want to spoil the pipework around the smoke stack come chimney. The photos are in no particular order. Comments and queries are more than welcome. More soon, regards, Gary.

I posted a few interesting details earlier, to be found under Episode 4, with regard to the mast light and rigging fittings. I have to admit to the fact that now that I am once again involved with the building of this boat, I am very much enjoying every minute of the build, as there is just something special about Clyde Puffers, despite the fact it is definitely the most difficult boat to try and fit a steam plant into, as it is so unconventional as near enough everything is at the extreme back end. My solution to this problem is to use two drive chains and a drive shaft around the boiler, to connect the centrally-mounted steam engine to the short prop shaft. Mind I admit to a fair bit of chain testing to hopefully ensure it was robust enough and up to what I had in mind, and I am reasonably happy with the results. I think the best description of a puffer is a boat with lots of character, which does not need a boat stand as it is flat-bottomed, and at home either on a canal or out at sea. A few more photographs which are in no particular order. Regards, Gary.

Just a minor improvement on the progress front, I have fitted ten rubber tyre's five along each side, and a bow fender on the front as the boating lake has concrete sides. I am afraid the quality of the photo leaves a lot to be desired. Regards, Gary.